4 1/2 to 5 pounds Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 to 1 1/4 cups whole milk
Freshly ground white pepper
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into slices
1 cup sour cream
1 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup finely grated Parmesan
Special equipment: food mill
Cook the potatoes: In a large pot, add the potatoes and cover amply with cold water. Bring the water up to a boil and reduce the heat so it simmers. Add a generous pinch of salt to the water and allow the potatoes to cook until tender when pierced with the tip of a knife, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain the potatoes in a colander and, while still hot, put them through a food mill.
Mash the potatoes: Return the empty pot to the heat and add the milk. Bring the milk to a simmer and gingerly add the potatoes back into the pot. Season with salt and pepper and gently mix in the butter and sour cream. Do not over mix – over mixing makes gummy potatoes. Taste for seasoning. Remove from the heat.
Finish the potatoes: When ready to serve, use a whisk (or an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment) to whip the heavy cream in a medium bowl until fairly firm. With a rubber spatula, gently fold the whipped cream and the Parmesan into the mashed potatoes. Taste for seasoning. Serve immediately.
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