This is an adaptation of a childhood recipe. I’d love to take full credit but it’s not possible. My mom would make the great Maida Heatter’s recipes before she began a career of dabbling in great baking books herself. You will need a tube pan with a 10-cup capacity (that is generally 9 inches in diameter); it can be a pan with a design or a 9 x 3 1/2–inch tube pan without a design. If you use a pan with a design, butter it (even if it is nonstick) and then dust it all over with sugar. If you use the plain 9 x 3 1/2–inch tube pan, butter it, line the bottom with parchment paper cut to fit, butter the paper, and dust all over with sugar. With either pan, tap to shake out excess over a piece of paper. Set aside.